Unusual location for stained glass

Can you guess where in Greenock you would find this beautiful stained glass panel?

It is not easy to see now because it is situated in the upper portion of Greenock's shopping centre - the Oak Mall.  This part of the Mall, at the upper eastern entrance is now closed off, but if you stand at the bottom of the stairs in the dilapidated lower east section of the Mall and look up you can just about see it.

Plans are underway (and have been for a considerable time) to completely redevelop this section of the Oak Mall and the surrounding area.  I hope that when these plans finally come to pass this panel will be saved and found a suitable place in the refurbished shopping centre.  You can read about the redevelopment plans on Inverclyde Council's website.

Oak Mall, Greenock from Clyde Square

I could not find any information about the stained glass panel, but to me it looks like a shoal of herring which would give it a good Greenock connection.

The Lovely Lass of Inverkip

 The "Lovely Lass of Inverkip" is a poem by the "Radical Poet", Alexander Rodger (1784-1846).

Alexander Rodger was born in East Calder, Midlothian and worked as a weaver and music teacher in Bridgeton, Glasgow.  In 1819 he was editor of the radical newspaper The Spirit of the Union and was imprisoned because of his writings.  A collection of his poems in the Scots dialect was published in 1821.   Here's "The Lovely Lass of Inverkip".

O'er Cowal hills the sinking sun
Was bidding Clutha's vale guid-day,
And from his gorgeous golden throne,
Was shedding evening's mildest ray,
As round the Cloch I bent my way,
With buoyant heart and bounding skip,
To meet my lass, at gloaming grey,
Amang the shaws of Inverkip.
 
We met- and what an eve of bliss!
A richer, sweeter, neve flew,
With mutual vow, with melting kiss,
And ardent throb of bosoms true:-
The bees, ;mid flowers of freshest hue,
Would cease their honeyed sweets to sip,
If they her soft sweet lips but knew -
The lovely lass of Inverkip.
 
Her ebon locks, her hazel eye,
Her placid brow, so fair and meek,
Her artless smile, her balmy sigh,
Her bonnie, blushing, modest cheek -
All these a stainless mind bespeak,
As pure as is the lily's tip;
Then, O, may sorrow's breath so bleak
Ne'er blight my Bud of Inverkip.

Rodger worked at Barrowfield Printworks and then became a writer on the Glasgow Chronicle and later the Reformer's Gazette.  In 1832 his work appeared in Whistle Binkie, a collection of poems by various authors.  He was known as the "Radical Poet". 

Read more about Inverkip here.

Grose at Newark

In 1770s the antiquarian, Francis Grose (1731-1791), visited Newark Castle.  Here's a drawing he made  of the castle at that time.

Newark Castle, Port Glasgow, Grose

Grose describes Newark Castle - "This was the castle or principal mansion of the barony of Finlaystun Maxwell, which about the middle of the fifteenth century, with diverse other lands, came to Sir Robert Maxwell of Calderwood, a younger son of the family of Nether Pollock, in right of Elizabeth, his wife, second daughter and co-heiress of Sir Robert Denniestoun, of that ilk.  It continued in the possession of the Maxwell family for several generations, till sold by George Maxwell alias Napier, of Kilmahew, Esq; to Mr Cockrane, of Kilmaronock, about the beginning of the eighteenth century.  It is at present the property of – Hamilton, of Wishaw, Esq; in whose family it has been for a considerable length of time. 

 This castle stands on the Eastern point of the bay, which contains the town and harbour of Port Glasgow and Newark.  It is now in ruins; but some part of it was inhabited about fifty years ago.  It consists of a square court, with high walls, round turrets, and battlements.  Over the main door are the arms of Maxwell, very much defaced, having beneath them this inscription:  “The Blessing of God be herein, anno 1597”.  On another part of one of the North windows is engraved the date 1599.  Over most of the windows are the letters PM, being the initials of Sir Patrick Maxwell, who probably built the modern part of it.  The tower is of more ancient date than the rest; when or by whom it was built is not known."

"The Blessings of God be Heirin" above doorway at Newark Castle.

Francis Grose

Francis Grose was a London born antiquarian and writer who travelled throughout Britain noting the historical buildings and ruins he visited.  In 1772 he published "The Antiquities of England and Wales" containing his drawings with a short description of the buildings they showed.  In 1788\1789 he travelled widely in Scotland and later produced "The Antiquities of Scotland" which included Newark Castle.  

The ruins of Alloway Kirk, Grose

While in Scotland in 1789, Grose met the poet Robert Burns who suggested that he included Alloway Kirk in his writings.  Grose agreed to this on condition that Burns would write a story about a witch to go along with the drawing.  This led, in 1790 to the famous Burns work - "Tam O'Shanter" being included in the second volume of Grose's "Antiquities of Scotland".  

The pair became good friends and Burns wrote to Frances Dunlop:- "I have never seen a man of more original observation, anecdote and remark ... If you discover  a cheerful-looking grig of an old, fat fellow, the precise figure of Dr Slop, wheeling about your avenue in his own carriage with a pencil and paper in his hand, you may conclude: "Thou art the man!".  (Dr Slop is a character in "Tristam Shandy" (1759) by Laurence Sterne.)

Burns and Grose kept up a correspondence.  Burns wrote a poem for his friend, and also this epitaph -

"On Captain Francis Grose

The devil got notice that Grose was a-dying,

So whip! at the summons, old Satan came flying;

But when he approach’d where poor Francis lay moaning,

And saw each bed-post with its burden a-groaning,

Astonish’d! confounded! cry’d Satan, “By God,

I’ll want him, ere I take such a damnable load!”

Grose was also the author of the very interesting and amusing "A Classical Dictionary of the Vulgar Tongue" (1775) and several other works.  Grose died in Dublin while travelling to find material for a book on the antiquities of Ireland.  One of his sons, also named Francis Grose (1758-1814) became Lieutenant Governor of New South Wales, Australia.

Just imagine!

While walking to Cathcart Street recently, I noticed these windows at the western end of Greenock's Municipal Buildings directly across from the library at Wallace Place.  It occurred to me that they could be put to good use in promoting our town.

They are in a busy location with people going to the Library, the Oak Mall or visiting the Fire and Rescue Museum on Dalrymple Street.  

I'm no graphic artist, but here are some of the ideas that I came up with - perhaps on large posters in the windows or some other method of display.  I noticed that they have a flat shelf that displays could be set up on.  Here's what I imagined!

Surely someone on Inverclyde Council could come up with a way of making these windows a bit more useful.  Displays or posters about local events could be put in place here, or even just information of local interest.  With many visitors in the town from cruise ships, it would be the ideal opportunity for promoting our area.

I am sure that the Watt Institution, Greenock's Museum and Art Gallery, has a lot of posters and artefacts that could be put to good use here.

Here's another idea -

There is so much of our local history and heritage that could be advertised here.

Anything would be better that what's already there!

The Clyde Society of Port Glasgow 1790

In 1790 the Clyde Society was set up in Port Glasgow.  It was described as a "Friendly Society", set up by a group of people to provide help for those members going through difficult times".  The Clyde Society was to consist "of persons above the labouring class ... merchants and masters of ship".  Contributions were made for the relief of widows and orphans of members of the society.  Widows “whether rich or poor” were to receive a certain sum per annum and an amount for every child under 14 years of age.  Any member who “fell  into reduced circumstances” was entitled to receive an amount at the discretion of the Directors of the society.

Source - Watt Institution

Members paid £5 on admission and 5 shillings quarterly as a fee.  Members had to have contributed for five years before they could receive any benefit.  Failure to pay the quarterly account led to dismissal from the Society.  An exception was given to those who were at sea or had moved to more that 20 miles from Port Glasgow.  It all sound very worthy, however as is the case in all such societies, difficulties arose in defining the rules in individual cases.

Alexander Malcolm a merchant in Port Glasgow and later a vendue-master (auctioneer) in Glasgow became a member and continued to pay his quarterly contribution for about 10 years.  He became bankrupt in May 1801 and was sent to prison in October and remained there until May 1802.  While in gaol, he was excluded from being a member of the Society because, of course, he had been unable to pay his account.  He obtained his freedom by a cessio bonorum, the definition of which is "the voluntary surrender of goods by a debtor to his creditors".

He died in October 1803 and since his bankruptcy he had been unable to make his contributions to the Clyde Society.  On her husband’s death, Elizabeth Steel, who was left with four children, submitted a petition to the Sheriff Depute of Renfrewshire in which she asked that she be paid the allowance stipulated by the Society to the widows and children of deceased members.  She was told that because her husband’s expulsion from the Society, she was not entitled to any payments.  At the time, Benjamin Moore was president of the Clyde Society.  Other members supporting him in this action were William Scott, coppersmith and James Foster surgeon.

After a lot of discussion, the Sheriff made an statement on 28 June 1805 - “Finds it admitted that the pursuer’s deceased husband paid up his quarters accounts and conformed himself to the rules of the Society, for the space of five years, and that his dismissal proceeded from no negligence, but mere inability to continue his payments, his widow, the pursuer, ought not, for any thing contained in these articles founded on, to be excluded from the aliment craved; therefore, allows her a proof of her husband’s indigence for the year previous to his expulsion, and to the defender’s conjunct probation”.  In other words, she was to be given the appropriate payments.

The Society presented a petition arguing against this judgement, but it was refused.  The Sheriff stated “I have no difficulty in this case.  The object of the institution is declared to be the support of reduced members, their widows and children.  It is implied in these words, that inability to pay is not a ground of forfeiture during the lives of the members; and the same thing is implied in the event of their death.”  The Society took the matter further, to the Court of Session.  The basic question being – “Whether Mr Malcolm, at the time he failed in paying his quarterly accounts, was within 20 miles of Port Glasgow or not?"  After much discussion the Clyde Society were found liable for the widow’s expenses.  Again, the Society argued the decision, but this time it was refused.  The Sheriff's judgement that an amount should be paid to Mrs Malcolm and her children was confirmed.  It was not until 1814 that matters were finally resolved.  The legal teams involved were - For pursuers (the widow) – Thomas W Baird Esq (Advocate), agent J Greig WS, and for the Society – Francis Jeffrey (Advocate) and John Greenshields agent – Francis Snodgrass WS.

A protracted legal case must have cost the Society dearly.  

Spot the plaque?

Historical markers or plaques are a great way of finding out about local people and places - if they are easy to find and read.  This plaque in Greenock explains the fact that the area was once the site of the home of Highland Mary, or Mary Campbell, one of the loves of Scottish poet Robert Burns.  Along with a verse by the poet, it reads - "On this spot stood the house, 31 Charles Street in which Burns' "Highland Mary" died on October 20th 1786."  There is also a drawing of the house in Charles Street.

Many locals pass by it every day and probably are not aware of its existence.  It is set back on a grassy verge, but to get near it is not easy because it is necessary to follow a narrow path, overgrown in places, which borders a very busy main road, the A78, near Greenock's bus station.  It is at the delivery area for the Oak Mall. 

Spot the plaque?

This area was once Greenock's High Street or before that, the Long Vennel and Highland Mary lived in a house in Upper Charles Street, just off the High Street.

In the 200 years since her death, Highland Mary has done a lot for tourism in Greenock.  Many visitors flocked to the site of her grave when it was situated in the Old West Kirk burying ground.  Even Abraham Lincoln's widow, Mary Todd Lincoln visited the grave when she was touring Scotland in 1869.  

Highland Mary's grave in Greenock Cemetery

Mary is now buried in Greenock Cemetery, her remains were moved when the Old West Kirk was taken apart and rebuilt on its present site on the Esplanade in the 1920s.

Old West Kirk on its original site - source

The only other mention of Highland Mary is on this sign which marks where the original Old West Kirk once stood.  You can find this sign across the road from Tesco's car park on Container Way.

It seems a great pity that, apart from a beautiful memorial in Greenock Cemetery, there is not a more visible local reminder of the woman who became famous as the love of that great Scottish poet, Robert Burns.

Fittingly, the verse on the hard to spot plaque from Burns' poem Highland Mary reads -

"And mouldering now in silent dust,

That heart that lo'ed me dearly! 

But still within my bosom's core          

Shall live my Highland Mary."

Mouldering in dust just about describes the Highland Mary plaque in Greenock!

Boys' Brigade at Greenock's Arts Guild 1969

This programme dated 1969 is from a show called "Bon Bon" by Greenock Battalion of the Boys' Brigade.  It was held in Greenock's Arts Guild Theatre in March 1969.  (The Arts Guild in Campbell Street was demolished in 2020.)

Inside are some wonderful advertisements for local businesses.  Some are no longer trading, but some are still doing business in the town.  Aulds the bakers has several shops locally and their pies are favourites with many people.  Their cakes, especially fudge doughnuts and strawberry tarts are superb!

Smiths sports shop is still doing well in West Blackhall Street, Greenock.  At the moment they have a wonderful selection of vintage Greenock Morton Football Club tops.

Some of the shops are no longer with us, but are remembered by many older Greenockians like Sheila Simpsons and Hodges.

These advertisements will certainly bring back some memories for those who lived in the town in the 60s and 70s.  Check out this short film on YouTube showing Greenock town centre as it was before it was destroyed in the name of progress in the early 70s.

Here are some more advertisements from this wonderful programme.

"Bon Bon" must have been a great night of entertainment for the parents and friends of the boys taking part in the show.  The Arts Guild in Greenock was a wonderful place for local entertainment.

Arts Guild, Campbell Street, Greenock - Demolished 2020

Lady Octavia

Lady Octavia Grosvenor (1829-1921) was, as her name suggests, the eighth child of Richard Grosvenor (1795-1869), 2^nd Marquess of Westminster and his wife Elizabeth Leveson-Gower, younger daughter of George Leveson-Gower, 2^nd Marquess of Stafford who would later become the 1^st Duke of Sutherland.

Source - Greenock Burns Club

Born in 1829, Lady Octavia was one of 13 children all of whom married into the British aristocracy. On 28 December 1852 she married Sir Michael Robert Shaw Stewart (1826-1903), 7^th Bart of Ardgowan at St George’s Church, Hanover Square, London.  Of her seven bridesmaids, three were her sisters - Agnes, Jane and Theodora.  The bridegroom’s best man was his brother Stewart Nicholson.  Later that evening, Sir Michael’s aunt, the Duchess of Somerset held a reception for some of the guests at Somerset House (Park Lane, not the main Somerset House) in London. 

Gossip columns of the time remarked on the marriage celebrations: “The crowd in the church was great, but this only served to render the general meagreness of the demonstration more apparent.  There was no wedding dejeuner; the chimneys of Grosvenor House were cold even on the occasion of the betrothment of one of its fairest daughters.  What was wanting in the hospitalities of the morning was however amply made up in the evening by a magnificent entertainment given to the relatives of both families by the Duchess of Somerset, the aunt of the bridegroom.”

The bride's dress of satin and Brussels lace was fully described in the newspapers.

In early January 1853, Sir Michael and Lady Octavia travelled from London to Glasgow and from there by a coach drawn by four horses to Port Glasgow where they were received at the town buildings by the magistrates and councillors of the town.  They then proceeded towards Greenock where they were met by members of the Caledonian Railway Lodge of Freemasons in their insignia accompanied by a band, flags and banners.  Sir Michael was the Provincial Grand Master.  The procession marched in front of the carriage through Cartsdyke where there were various gun salutes from batteries at the works along the route.  All the way into the town crowds had gathered, cheering as the procession passed.  At various places in Greenock, flags were flown and the harbours decked with bunting.  The banners of the crafts and trades were also on display in the town.  

Source - Greenock Burns Club

The procession proceeded to Brachelston Toll (where the Cemetery Gates are now).  An elaborate evergreen arch had been constructed by townsman Robert Thorne of Greenbank.  After this, the bridal carriage continued to Ardgowan.  People gathered at various points along the way to welcome the happy couple.  

Ardgowan House, Inverkip

At Ardgowan the tenants had gathered and the church bells at Inverkip rang out in welcome.  The couple appeared on the roof of the portico of Ardgowan House, and it was noted that the bride was wearing a large shawl in the Stewart tartan.  It was reported that Lady Octavia: “notwithstanding the fatigue of travel looked remarkably well and beautiful".  Refreshments were served to the crowd and the young couple again appeared and were addressed by several of the local dignitaries, congratulating them on their marriage and welcoming Lady Octavia to Ardgowan.  The official ceremonies over, the couple retired indoors.

One of the new bride’s first “official duties” locally was the naming of the ship Atrato which was launched from Caird & Co’s yard in April 1853.  Atrato, a paddle wheel steamer was built for the Royal West India Mail Steam Navigation Company. 

Launch of the "Atrato"

Throughout their lives, Sir Michael and Lady Octavia spent time at Ardgowan and took an active part in local affairs.  They also had homes in London and at Fonthill in Wiltshire.  They had several children.  Sir Michael died in 1903 and was succeeded by his eldest son Michael Hugh Shaw Stewart (1854-1942).  He was known as Sir Hugh Shaw Stewart.

After the death of Sir Michael, Lady Octavia’s preferred home was Fonthill which had been bought by her father, the Duke of Westminster in 1825 and bequeathed to Sir Michael.  Fonthill’s previous owner had been William Beckford.  On Lady Octavia's death in 1921, her son Walter Richard Shaw Stewart had to sell some of the Fonthill estate to pay death duties.  He died in 1934 and left Fonthill to his widow Mary Beatrice Sydney Lane.  Their son, Walter Guy Shaw Stewart became the 9^th baronet of Ardgowan.

Children of Sir Michael and Lady Octavia -

Michael Hugh Shaw Stewart (1854-1942) married Lady Alice Emma, daughter of the Marquis of Bath.  Succeeded Sir Michael, his father (became 8^th Bart).
Charles Robert Shaw Stewart (1856-1932) married Ida Fannie Caroline Alfken.  Became a Church of England clergyman.
Helen Shaw Stewart (1859-1939) married Charles Pierrepont, 4^th Earl Manvers (later, Lord Newark).
Walter Richard Shaw Stewart (1861-1834) married Mary Beatrice Sydney Lane.  Captain Argyll & Sutherland Highlanders.
Agnes Caroline Shaw Stewart (1862-1935)
Archibald William Shaw Stewart (1865-1927)
Houston Michael Shaw Stewart (1871-1901) DSO, Captain 17^th Lancers, drowned on way home from Boer War.
Two daughters died in infancy - Evelyn Margaret Shaw Stewart born 1859 and Eliza Mary Shaw Stewart (1856-1875). 

There is a plaque commemorating Houston Michael Shaw Stewart in St John's Episcopal Church in Greenock.  He was Captain 17th Lancers, known as the "Death or Glory Boys" and died in 1901 after falling overboard from the transport ship Canada on his way home from the Boer War in South Africa.

John Rennie's plan for Greenock's East Harbour

On 29 May 1805 the foundation stone was laid for what was to be Greenock’s East Harbour which stretched from what is now known as Customhouse Quay eastwards to the Dailing Burn (Dellingburn).  The foundation stone was laid with full masonic honours by the town’s chief magistrate, Hugh Crawford.  There was the usual procession of the trades of the town accompanied by the Freemasons for the ceremony.

John Rennie, Engineer

The contractor for the East Harbour was Andrew Brocket (1756-1832), mason from Glasgow who was also responsible for the Nelson Monument on Glasgow Green and the locks on the Crinan Canal.  The Harbour was designed by John Rennie (1761-1821), civil engineer and designer of many major waterways and bridges at the time.  He worked for a while with Greenockian James Watt and his partner Matthew Boulton at the Soho Works in Birmingham.

This is a copy of the written details of the plan which Rennie sent to Hugh Crawfurd and Walter Ritchie, senior magistrates of the town in 1802:-  

The plan which has occurred to me, is nearly the same as was proposed by Mr Ainslie, (John Ainslie (1745-1828), surveyor and cartographer) in his former survey; namely, to build a quay or pier 100 feet wide, parallel to and close by the Deling Burn, which is the boundary of the powers granted by the Act of Parliament, and extending about 240 yards from the bridge. From the extremity of this pier, I propose another nearly at right angles and parallel to the great bank, of 60 feet in width and 150 yards in length. 

I propose the new quay to be extended about 66 yards behind the present pier and of the width of 40 feet, this will leave an opening between it, and the other 50 yards wide which I propose as the entrance or opening of the harbour.  It may be asked, why not have extended the eastern pier 66 yards further, and made the entrance to the harbour at the end of the present new quay?  To this I answer, that in the first place the harbour is so narrow at the present pier, that there is very little room for ships to get out and into it – and in the second place, that it is so narrow there is not sufficient room for the waves to spend their violence before they reach the breast of the inner quay, which would render the harbour very unquiet, and of course detrimental to the vessels lying in it.

I propose a breast wall to be built from the east end of the east quay, to that at the Deling Burn, which will close nearly nine statute acres of water, and give about 1000 yards in length of quay.  The quay next the town is proposed to be one hundred feet wide, as well as that parallel to the Deling Burn; the bottom of the harbour, which is not dry at low water, is proposed to be deepened to about 2 feet under it.

The space between the breast or quay wall, and the shore, is intended to be filled with earth, and the piers are proposed to be formed by an out and an inside wall, with counterforts, having the space between filled with earth and paved over; this filling will consume about 112,000 cubic yards of earth more than will come out of the harbour; this earth must be brought from some other place not very distant from the harbour.

I do not propose to have any middle quay or tongue in this harbour, as upon comparing the extent of quay with the quantity of water, the one seems fully equal to the other.  A harbour should always have some room for those ships which are in ballast, or such as are laid up for the winter or are waiting for repairs, and after the whole quays are occupied by such vessels as will be loading and discharging their cargoes; there does not seem to be more space left than is necessary for the accommodation of such vessels, as I have before mentioned, and others moving to and from the quays.

A dry dock was proposed by Mr Ainslie in the southeast corner of this new harbour.  I have however thought proper to leave it out here, as a dry dock in this situation would occupy nearly 130 yards of the best part of the quay, and would be a great inconvenience to the harbour, besides there would not be sufficient room around it to contain timber for such vessels as may want repair.

The second part of the plan is that of enlarging the present quay by an outside wall which is also parallel to Greenock bank and filling the space between it and the present piers with earth.  The stones in the outside walls of the old piers will be of considerable use in forming some of the new works and will occasion a saving for which I have made no allowance, because in every work of this kind, there are accidents and expenses which can seldom be foreseen, and therefore the amount of this saving will probably be expended in such unforeseen matters.

I have also shewn that an enlargement may be made in the present harbour, by forming the inside of the north piers parallel to those of the outside; but, were this even done, although it would be a considerable improvement to the harbour, yet I think the experience would be greater than the advantage gained by it, I therefore do not advise its being done, nor have I made any estimate for it.

The quantity of earth wanted to fill the spaces between these walls and the piers, will be about seventy thousand cubic yards, which must be got from some other place same as the new harbour.

The expense of the works, for the new harbour as per estimate, amounts to £35,392.  For enlarging the east quay of the present harbour, and what is called the new quay as per estimate, £8,444. 

This appears to be a larger sum than the gentlemen of Greenock may have been led to imagine, but I doubt it will not be done at less than is here stated, for as all these outer walls must be laid considerably under low water, they can only we done with certainty of caissons, which are very expensive, and they must be of large dimensions to resist the action of the sea.  I have therefore given such dimensions, as appear to me public works of this sort ought to have; when they are done slightly, they are in constant want of repair, and very inconvenient in their use which such repairs are in hand.

Thus, Gentlemen, have I pointed out what appears to me the best plan, for the present and future improvement of the Port of Greenock – a plan which has not been formed without much consideration.  That it is perfect, I will not pretend to say, perfection does not belong to mortals; but I flatter myself, you will find sufficient in it to demand your attention; and I doubt not you will give it that candid consideration the importance of the subject requires and appreciate its merits accordingly.

I am, Gentlemen, with much esteem,
Your most obedient Servant
John Rennie
London July 12, 1802.

Over the years the harbour was adapted to suit the times and fortunately we still have its presence in the town of Greenock today and is known as the East India Harbour.  

East India Harbour, Greenock (1966)- source Watt Institution

East India Harbour looking west

When workmen were constructing the foundations of the adjacent Victoria Harbour, they uncovered a metal plaque containing an inscription, along with several coins which had been deposited when the foundation stone of the East Harbour was laid.  The inscription read:

In the Forty Sixth year of the Reign of our most gracious Sovereign George the Third.

And under the auspices of Hugh Crawford Esq, Chief Magistrate, Robert Bannatyne, Treasurer, Alexander Dunlop, Thomas Ramsay, Andrew Thomson, Alan Ker, Duncan McNaught and John Laird, Councillors.  

Pursuant to the Sanction of a Provident Legislature, This stone was laid on the 29^th day of May in the year of our Lord 1805 and of the Era of Masonry 5850.  John Rennie Esq, Engineer.  John Aird, Superintendent.  Andrew Brocket, Contractor.