"HMS Greenock" 1849

On 30 May 1849 a large crowd gathered at John Scott’s shipbuilding yard (then at the north end of Westburn Street) to watch the launch of HMS Greenock,  the first ever steam-frigate launched on the Clyde.  Some of the ship's machinery was by Scott, Sinclair & Co of Greenock.  Some sources state that her figurehead was a bust of John Scott.

The 565-horsepower ship was 213 feet in length and 37 feet 4 inches in breadth with a depth of 23 feet.  The Greenock was armed with 10 guns.  Philip Thornton, naval architect of Portsmouth Dockyard was the overseer on the project.

Unfortunately, while the ship was lying at the Tail of the Bank, a small boat taking men out to the ship was caught in a squall when just alongside.  The small boat overturned and sixteen men were thrown into the Clyde.  The Captain, James Brown, hearing their shouts, “leaped, undressed, through a port in his cabin, into a boat the sailors were in the act of lowering, and by his energy, all hands were rescued from a watery grave, he himself having with his own hands pulled five men into the boat”.

In 1852 the ship was taken over by the Australian Royal Mail Steam Navigation Company and renamed Melbourne.  In 1854 the ship was sold again and converted to a sailing ship.

Westburn War Plaques

Westburn Parish Church in Greenock contains many plaques listing those who gave their lives in World Wars I and II.

You can download a full list of those names and details of the plaques here.  The document also gives a short history of Westburn Parish Church, previously known as St Luke's Church.

Over the years Westburn has joined with other Greenock churches.  Their memorial plaques are also included in the document.

Greenock's fallen angel

In January 1884 a storm caused damage to Greenock’s Municipal Buildings which were in the process of being constructed just off Cathcart Square.  Scaffolding had been set up so that work could commence on the building of the Victoria Tower.  Unfortunately the storm caused the scaffolding to fall bringing with it the sculpture of an angel above the entrance to the carriageway facing Cathcart Square – Greenock’s fallen angel lay in pieces on the ground.  Fortunately, no one was injured.

 

The two smaller carvings which were said to represent “certain industries of the town” were also damaged – one lost its head and the other lost an arm.

Some of the scaffolding was blown onto the roof of Rowan’s Warehouse, in Cathcart Square, causing damage there.

Fortunately, the angel sculpture was replaced and the damaged sculptures put right.  Greenock still has its angel which hopefully will not go the way of its predecessor!

 

Dalziel of Bardrainney

It is difficult to imagine now, but the Bardrainney area of Port Glasgow was once quiet countryside with Bardrainney House and a surrounding estate of small farms.  The surrounding land belonged to James Cunningham, 14th Earl of Glencairn.  Alexander Dalziel living at Bardrainney was his factor, dealing with the efficient running of the Estate of Finlaystone.

any of the local farms were let out and as this newspaper clipping from 1789 shows, some of the names may be recognisable - Bogside, Knockmountain, High Langside, Laigh Langside, Laigh Castlehill, Bardrainnies and Parklee.

Alexander Dalziel was born in West Linton, the son of George Dalziel who was thought to have been an innkeeper at West Linton and Noble-house Inn.  He also owned farming land in the area. (He certainly seems to know how to attract clients!) 

It was reported that George Dalziel “was the first farmer that sewed turnip in open fields;  I believe he had a field of perhaps two or three acres at Linton, so early as 1763 or 1764.  I believe he might also be the first who cultivated potatoes on a large scale, by the plough”. (History of Peeblesshire, William Chambers, 1864.)  Alexander Dalziel had (at least) two sisters, Margaret, and Mary who married James Craig, a mason in Penicuik.

Earl of Glencairn

As factor to the Earl of Glencairn, Alexander Dalziel would have often had to travel to Edinburgh on the Earl's business and it is here that he is thought to have met the poet, Robert Burns.  They both admired the work of Edinburgh poet Robert Fergusson (1750-1774).  Dalziel is said to have been responsible for introducing Burns' poetry to the Earl of Glencairn who became a valued patron of the poet.

Burns and Dalziel corresponded regularly and Burns was devastated to learn of the Earl's death in January 1791.  He wrote to Dalziel:-

“My Dear Sir, I have taken the liberty to frank this letter to you, as it encloses an idle poem of mine, which I send you; and, God knows, you may perhaps pay dear enough for it if you read it through.  Not that this is my own opinion but the author, by the time he has composed and corrected his work, has quite pored away all his powers of critical discrimination.
I can easily guess from my own heart, what you have felt on a late most melancholy event.  God knows what I have suffered, at the loss of my best friend, my first and dearest patron and benefactor; the man to whom I owe all that I am and have!  I am gone into mourning for him, and with more sincerity of grief than I fear some will, who by nature’s ties ought to feel on the occasion.
I will be exceedingly obliged to you indeed, to let me know the news of the noble family, how the poor mother and the two sisters support their loss.  I had a packet of poetic bagatelles ready to send to Lady Betty, when I saw the fatal tidings in the newspaper.  I see by the same channel that the honoured remains of my noble patron are designed to be brought to the family burial place.  Dare I trouble you to let me know privately before the day of interment, that I may cross the country, and steal among the crowd, to pay a tear to the last sight of my ever revered benefactor?  It will oblige me beyond expression."

(Glencairn had died on his return from Lisbon where he had gone for his health.  He died and was buried at Falmouth, and not at Kilmaurs in Ayrshire which is where Burns seemed to think he was to be buried.  "Lady Betty mentioned in the letter was Glencairn's sister, Lady Elizabeth.)

Robert Burns wrote a poem Lament for James, Earl of Glencairn which you can read here.  He also named his fourth son James Glencairn Burns (1794-1865) in his memory.

James Glencairn Burns

Alexander Dalziel died in early January 1819.  His obituary from the Edinburgh Magazine & Review reads:-

"Alexander Dalziel, Esq of West Linton, formerly of Port Glasgow.  Mr Dalziel was the intimate friend of the Scottish poets, Fergusson and Burns; of the former he was accustomed to relate many interesting anecdotes, and, of the latter, he was fortunate enough to be the early patron, by introducing him to the Earl of Glencairn, an event which Burns never recollected but with the enthusiasm of grateful feeling.  Mr Dalziel is styled by an excellent judge, the elegant biographer of our immortal bard, one of the ablest of his correspondents.  No man was more remarkable for acuteness and accuracy in business, for a sturdy independence of mind, and for keen indignation at any appearance of falsehood, dishonesty and meanness.”

Alexander Dalziel seems to have been a very interesting character and is thought to have been an early  member of Greenock Burns Club along with fellow Port Glasgow resident and friend of Burns, Richard Brown.

Greenock - youth and maturity

These handsome men are to be found on the west façade of Greenock's Municipal Buildings - just opposite the Central Library in Wallace Place.  Look up - and there they are!

Presumably they represent youth and maturity, growth and strength.

The Municipal Buildings were designed by Hugh and David Barclay.  The foundation stone was laid on 6 August 1881 by Provost Dugald Campbell, and work continued for a number of years.

The whole building has some magnificent sculptures all the way around and there are more here on the west side - see photographs here.

I think these two are my favourites - for now!

John Crawford - house painter and poet

John Crawford was born in Greenock in 1816.  After serving his apprenticeship with Reid, Huie & Co chandlers, West Breast, Greenock he worked as a house painter and when he was 18 years old moved to Alloa and worked there.  As well as working to provide for his family, John Crawford also wrote poetry.

 

He published a collection of his poems and songs - “Doric Lays” in 1850, dedicated to Alloa merchant Alexander Bald (1783-1859), who had encouraged Crawford in his writing.  Crawford’s poems cover a wide variety of subjects, both homely tales of everyday life and more general works.  Many were written Scots and some in English.  He was also responsible for the illustration on the front of the edition of his work.

My Auld Wifie Jean

My couthie auld wifie aye blithesome to see,

As years slip awa’ aye the dearer to me;

For ferlies o’fashion I carena ae preen,

When I cleek to the kirk we’ my auld wifie Jean.

In 1835 he married Jean McDougal in Alloa and the couple had three sons and a daughter – Alexander Hope Crawford, born in 1841, William Motherwell Crawford, born in 1845, Mary McPherson Crawford born in1852 and Andrew McDougal Crawford born in 1854.  One of the sons may have died young, two of his sons and his daughter later settled in Canada.  Many of his poems and songs refer to children –

Mother’s Pet

Mother’s bairnie, mother’s dawtie,

Wee, wee steering stumping tottie,

Bonnie dreamer, - guileless glee

Lights thy black and laughing e’e.

John Crawford died in Alloa in 1873.  It was reported that he had just returned from a visit to Greenock, to see his daughter off to stay with her brothers in Canada.

He was also interested in history and had been in the process of writing “Memorials of Alloa”.  It was published after his death.  Rev Charles Rogers (who had a lot to do with the plans for the Wallace Monument in Stirling) wrote a memorial of Crawford’s life at the beginning of the book. 

There was another aspect to John Crawford’s life, apart from his poetry that made him interesting to the public.  He was related to Highland Mary (Mary Campbell) who was one of the loves of Scottish poet Robert Burns.

Crawford was the son of Alexander Crawford, a carpenter in Greenock and Mary McPherson.  His mother was the daughter of Peter McPherson and Mary Campbell (who may have been Highland Mary's aunt).  It was said that he was born in his grandmother’s house in Charles Street – the same one where Highland Mary died.  Highland Mary was buried in the Old West Kirkyard in a plot owned by Peter McPherson, Crawford’s grandfather.  

Interestingly, at the Burns Exhibition in Glasgow in 1896 there was an exhibit labelled “Dram glass given by Mrs Burns (Jean Armour) to Peter McPherson, uncle to Highland Mary.  Presented by Mrs Crawford, widow of the late John Crawford, author of “Doric Lays, etc", to James F Lyon, Alloa, 27 May 1896.”  You can view it here.

He was obviously an admirer of Burns for on 25 January 1859 (the centenary of the birth of Burns) he held a dinner at his home and it was described as “The Gathering o' the Bards”.

An unpopular minister!

Back in the 18th century, church ministers were chosen by the local landowner.  Of course not every churchgoer was happy about that.  However, many congregations found ways of showing their disapproval when the lord of the manor chose a minister who was not liked.  Greenock was no exception.

Old West Kirk, Greenock

In 1786 John Shaw Stewart, the patron, presented the Rev Allan McAulay to the Presbytery as his chosen candidate for the vacancy at the Old West Kirk.  He was to be introduced to his new congregation on Sunday 19 May.  The day was not without incident.

When the beadle went to open up the church, he found that the doors had been barricaded shut and even the door into the pulpit had been fastened with nails and then the heads of the nails cut off.  The bell ropes had also been cut, so that the bell could not be rung on that morning.  Things were put right just in time for morning service.  Enquiries were made into who could have done this, but no culprits were found.  Some of those questioned stated that “those who had shut up the kirk were well warranted to do so from the word of God”.  It had obviously been a popular move.  Eventually, however, Rev McAulay was installed as the new minister. 

List of Ministers, Old West Kirk, Greenock

McAulay remained at Greenock for just three years, during which time he complained about the state of the manse, a new one was eventually built after he left.  He also disagreed with the Dr Adam, minister of the Mid Parish regarding when communion should be celebrated in the town.  He also caused some disquiet due to his “irregular marriage … and other scandalous conduct".  He was suspended from his post while an investigation took place and died shortly afterwards in 1791.  (Source - "Old Greenock", George Williamson (1888).)

For two years prior to his death during his suspension, pulpit supply had been provided by a number of different preachers.  Two months after McAulay’s death, much to their relief, the congregation got a new Minister – the Rev Robert Steele who remained their minister for 40 years.

Rev Robert Steele's gravestone Old West Kirkyard

A very similar scene is wonderfully described in the novel Annals of the Parish by John Galt, describing the introduction of the Rev Micah Balwhidder to his new parish in 1760:-

"First, of the placing – It was a great affair; for I was put in by the patron, and the people knew nothing whatsoever of me, and their hearts were stirred into strife on the occasion, and they did all that lay within the compass of their power to keep me out, insomuch, that there was obliged to be a guard of soldiers to protect the presbytery.”

He continues – “When we got to the kirk door, it was found to be nailed up, so as by no possibility to be opened.  The serjeant of the soldiers wanted to break it, but I was afraid that the heritors would grudge and complain of the experience of a new door, and I supplicated him to let it be as it was; we were, therefore obligated to go in by a window, and the crowd followed us, in the most unreverent manner, making the Lord’s house like an inn on a fair day, with their grievous yelly-hooing”!

John Galt

John Galt (1779-1839) moved to Greenock with his parents in 1789 and no doubt heard the story of McAulay’s welcome to the Old West Kirk.  Annals of the Parish was one of Galt’s most popular works and was published in 1821.

Galt and Graham at the Makars' Court, Edinburgh

One of the first things you will see on entering Lady Stairs' Close leading off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh is this paving slab commemorating Greenock's own writer John Galt.

The words on the slab read - "birr and smeddum" John Galt (1779-1839).  

Birr and smeddum are Scottish words often used by Galt in his writing.  Birr usually means energy or enthusiasm and smeddum can mean strength.

The courtyard called Makars' Court (makar is the Scots word for poet or author) contains many other slabs commemorating Scottish writers and among them was one for the poet William Sydney Graham - another Greenockian.

The words on the slab read - W. S. Graham 1918-1986 
"What is the language using us for?"

The quote is the title of one of Graham's poems published in the book "Implements in Their Places" (1977).  (Read the full poem and a review here.)  You can read more about W S Graham and Greenock on The Greenockian Blog here (there's more in this blog - just use the search box at the top right of this post).

The Writers' Museum faces the courtyard and has fabulous exhibits of the life and works of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.  I asked if there was a display with information about John Galt and was told - no!  Very disappointing!  However the Museum is well worth a visit.

Port Glasgow - fabulous refit!

Two of Port Glasgow's oldest buildings have been given an overhaul and the result is fabulous!

Situated on King Street, the former town hall and Masonic Lodge reopened in May 2025 after being totally refurbished.

They have become Port Glasgow Community Hub and I'm sure will be an excellent resource for the town.

The little "garden" at the back has been retained as well as the wonderful old stone wall.

The buildings originally date from around 1760 and were the first Port Glasgow town hall and Masonic Lodge.  John Wesley preached in this building in 1774.  You can read more about their history and see photographs of how they used to look in a previous post here.

Ladyburn Aspiration

This beautiful sculpture can be seen just outside the Ladyburn Business Centre (Riverside Business Park) at the east end of Greenock.  It is called "Aspiration" (2008) and is by Scottish sculptor Keith McCarter.  His work can be found all over Britain and abroad (click on link for bio.)

What does it represent?  I've always thought that it was like a nib from a fountain pen because of its position right outside what used to be Ladyburn Primary School.  Others have different opinions.  Perhaps we are just meant to put our own meaning on the work.

It is situated in a little seated area outside the business parks on East Hamilton Street, Greenock.

More information on Ladyburn Business Centre, Greenock.  There's also a great cafe nearby - The Cottage.

More local sculptures -

Ginger the Horse, Greenock
Egeria, Greenock
Prospect & Trust, Greenock
Men of the Clyde, Greenock
Endeavour, Port Glasgow
Shipbuilders of Port Glasgow

Death at the cotton mill

A cotton mill once stood on Drumfrochar Road in Greenock.

In 1841 Ludovic Grant was the manager of the cotton mill powered by water from the Shaws Water Scheme.  He and his wife, Ann Colquhoun, lived at Prospect Hill on  Ann Street. 

A dreadful accident took place at the mill on 3 May 1841.  It was reported in several newspapers -

“A most distressing accident, attended with loss of life, has just occurred here, at the large cotton mill on the Shaws water.  As Mr Ludovic Grant, the excellent manager of the work, was showing the great wheel, and interior of the wheel-house, to Mr Muir, of the saw-mill, Glasgow, they observed two small pieces of stone falling from the upper part of the wall, and while stooping to lift them, the whole eastern side wall of the wheel-house gave way, and buried the party, together with about half a dozen of the workmen, in the ruins.  At first it was believed that the whole would have been killed, but Mr Muir escaped in a most miraculous manner, as did several of the workmen, leaving Mr Grant and two masons covered with the rubbish.  After the lapse of an hour or more, the lifeless corpses of Mr Grant, together with that of one of the workmen, were dug out dreadfully disfigured.  The third was taken out all but dead, and three of the others were severely injured, but not dangerously.  The event, which has not yet been properly accounted for, has thrown a deep gloom over the whole community, as all were interested in the welfare and prosperity of the work.  Mr Grant and his friends had not been five minutes in the wheel-house when the accident happened.” 

Ludovic Grant was buried in the Duncan Street Cemetery in Greenock.  His widow, Ann’s sister, Mary Ramage came to Greenock from Edinburgh to comfort her sister.  Ann moved to Edinburgh to be near her sister and in November 1842 she married Alexander James, solicitor in Edinburgh.

Shaw's Water Scheme was officially opened on 16 April 1827.  Devised by Robert Thom, it provided a badly needed supply of fresh water for industry and for the increasing population of Greenock.  Many mills started up, taking advantage of the new scheme.  One of these was the Cotton Mill which was at the south end of Ann Street on Drumfrochar Road.  In fact if you go to Google Earth and look at the area, you can still see the outline of a building in that exact area.

Arthur Conan Doyle at Greenock

On 1 December 1893, Arthur Conan Doyle (1859-1930) delivered a lecture entitled “Facts about Fiction” in the hall of the Watt Institute in Greenock.  He had been invited by Greenock Philosophical Society whose president at the time was Robert Caird (1852-1915).  

There was a large audience to hear the author’s “brilliant and masterly” talk which “… was devoted to the younger novelists, such as Robert Louis Stevenson, Olive Schreiner, J M Barrie “Q”, Rudyard Kipling, Jerome K Jerome, and others …”.  ("Q" seems to refer to Sir Arthur Quiller-Couch - click on link for more information.)

 

Conan Doyle, born in Edinburgh in 1859, was described in the Greenock Telegraph as “… a tall, dark-haired, heavy-built, and firmly knit, yet withal pleasant-faced and manly-looking literary Philistine”!  He is best known for his famous detective Sherlock Holmes, but produced many other works in his career.  He was knighted in 1902.

Arthur Conan Doyle was just one of the many famous and important people of their day who were guests of the Greenock Philosophical Society who are still holding regular meetings in the Watt Institution in Greenock.