Dunghills and privies

In 1841 Dr William L Laurie wrote report on the sanitary conditions in Greenock for the Poor Law Commissioners of Scotland.  It is a remarkable description of the living conditions of the ordinary people of Greenock at that time.  Several of the descriptions are particularly dreadful.

Dr Laurie, whose consulting rooms were on Hamilton Street, writes -

“Behind my consulting rooms, where I am now sitting, there is a large dunghill with a privy attached; to my knowledge that dunghill has not been emptied for six months; it serves a whole neighbourhood, and the effluvium is so offensive that I cannot open the window.  The land is three stories high, and the people, to save themselves trouble, throw all their filth out of the stair window, consequently a great part of it goes on the close, and the close is not cleaned out till the dunghill is full: the filth in the close reaches nearly to the sill of the back window of a shop in front, and the malarious moisture oozes through the wall on the floor.”

The map above shows some of the places Dr Laurie was describing in his report.  Market Street came to his attention when he noted that more people from there than other parts of the town were being admitted to his care with fever and typhoid -

“This [Market Street] is a narrow back street; it is almost overhung by a steep hill rising immediately behind it; it contains the lowest description of houses built closely together, the access to the buildings being through filthy closes; the front entrance is generally the only outlet; numerous foci for the production of miasma lie concealed in this street, I think I could point out one in each close.”

Market Street, Greenock - Source @Watt Institution

Dr Laurie goes on to describe some of the houses in the poorer areas of the town -

"The great proportion of the dwellings of the poor are situated in very narrow and confined closes or alleys leading from the main streets; these closes end generally in a cul-de-sac, and have little ventilation, the space between the houses being so narrow as to exclude the action of the sun on the ground.  I might almost say there are no drains in any of these closes, for where I have noticed sewers, they are in such a filthy and obstructed state, that they create more nuisance than if they never existed.  In those cases where there is no dunghill, the excrementitious and other offensive matter is into the gutter before the door, or carried out and put in the street.”

Dr Laurie (1814-1899) was born in Dumfries.  In 1838 he married Mary Andrew Macfie (1813-1883) in Greenock.  The couple moved to Druimneil House, Appin near Oban.  Mary Andrew was the daughter of William Macfie, sugar refiner of Langhouse and was the sister of Robert Macfie who owned the Airds Estate in Port Appin.

Scott, Sinclair & Co and Lady Byron

In its early days, the Greenock firm of Scott, Sinclair & Co were best known in Greenock for producing engines and other items for ships at their foundry at Cartsburn Street.  However, in 1844 a much more unusual item was made there.  It was an iron schoolhouse.

Lady Byron - source

It was made for Lady Byron, widow of the poet Lord Byron and was described in a newspaper article - 

“It is one storey high, has a pavilion roof, is round in shape, and has four windows and a door.  It weighs about 8 or 9 tons, and being in compartments, an be easily taken down in convenient pieces to carry to any distance, and quickly put together again.” 

The building was to be used as a school for the education of 50 poor children paid for by Lady Byron.  It was set up in Fleckney in Leicestershire where it was known as the “iron school”. 

Lady Byron was born Anne Isabella Noel Milbanke in 1792.  In 1815 she married George Gordon Byron (1788-1824) the poet.  It seems to have been an unhappy marriage and the couple separated after just one year, Annabella (as she was known) having given birth to the couple’s only child, Ada Lovelace (1815-1852).  A great philanthropist, Lady Byron took a special interest in education and established several schools.  She died of breast cancer in 1860.

Greenock has another link with Lord Byron.  Author John Galt wrote a biography of Byron which was published in 1830.

Union Church, Greenock

This photograph shows the former Union Church of Scotland in Greenock.  It was situated at the east end of Union Street near George Square.  It was demolished in the 1990s and a block of flats was built in its place. 

Union Church, Union Street, Greenock

Union Church was built in 1834 by members of the United Secession Church in Nicolson Street who had disagreed with that church’s choice of minister and left to start their own congregation.  It was known as the Union Street United Secession Church at that time.  The first minister was Rev Thomas Finlayson (1809-1872) who was ordained in 1835.  He moved to Rose Street Church in Edinburgh in 1847.  One of Rev Finlayson's important undertakings was to try to reduce the debt which had accumulated through the building of the church.  It was not finally paid off until 1853.

An interesting advertisement for a precentor from 1846 appeared in the local paper.  Note that "None need apply but those whose Moral Character and Musical Education will bear the strictest scrutiny"!

That same year, the United Secession Church and Relief Church joined together to form the United Presbyterian Church.  The church became known as the Union Street UP Church.  From 1847 the  minister was the Rev John Burns Smith (1819-1899).  Rev Smith was a popular minister and remained in Greenock until his death in 1899.  He is buried in Greenock Cemetery.

Union Street UP Church 1862

In 1884 the Church celebrated its Jubilee and a portrait was presented to former Provost James Morton (1822-1890) who had been a member of the church since 1848.  (See the portrait here.)

Photo source - Greenock Burns Club

In 1895 Rev Dr John Cullen became minister.  Originally from the West UP Church in Leslie, Fife he had been preaching at St George’s Church, Northgate, Darlington.  In In 1900 the United Presbyterian Church joined with the Free Church of Scotland to form the United Free Church of Scotland.  The church’s name changed again to the Union Street UF Church.

In 1909 Rev Dr Cullen moved to back to Fife.  His position was filled by Rev John Young who remained in Greenock until 1929 when he moved to Oban.  A keen chess player, he was part of the Greenock team that won the Spens Cup in 1911 (see photo here). 

In 1929 the United Free Church joined with the Church of Scotland – another name change!  In 1992 Union Street Church joined with St Andrew’s Church further along Union Street.  This church was renamed Ardgowan ParishChurch, now known as Lyle Kirk, Union Street.

The former Union Church building was demolished and replaced with housing.

"HMS Greenock" 1849

On 30 May 1849 a large crowd gathered at John Scott’s shipbuilding yard (then at the north end of Westburn Street) to watch the launch of HMS Greenock,  the first ever steam-frigate launched on the Clyde.  Some of the ship's machinery was by Scott, Sinclair & Co of Greenock.  Some sources state that her figurehead was a bust of John Scott.

The 565-horsepower ship was 213 feet in length and 37 feet 4 inches in breadth with a depth of 23 feet.  The Greenock was armed with 10 guns.  Philip Thornton, naval architect of Portsmouth Dockyard was the overseer on the project.

Unfortunately, while the ship was lying at the Tail of the Bank, a small boat taking men out to the ship was caught in a squall when just alongside.  The small boat overturned and sixteen men were thrown into the Clyde.  The Captain, James Brown, hearing their shouts, “leaped, undressed, through a port in his cabin, into a boat the sailors were in the act of lowering, and by his energy, all hands were rescued from a watery grave, he himself having with his own hands pulled five men into the boat”.

In 1852 the ship was taken over by the Australian Royal Mail Steam Navigation Company and renamed Melbourne.  In 1854 the ship was sold again and converted to a sailing ship.

Westburn War Plaques

Westburn Parish Church in Greenock contains many plaques listing those who gave their lives in World Wars I and II.

You can download a full list of those names and details of the plaques here.  The document also gives a short history of Westburn Parish Church, previously known as St Luke's Church.

Over the years Westburn has joined with other Greenock churches.  Their memorial plaques are also included in the document.

Greenock's fallen angel

In January 1884 a storm caused damage to Greenock’s Municipal Buildings which were in the process of being constructed just off Cathcart Square.  Scaffolding had been set up so that work could commence on the building of the Victoria Tower.  Unfortunately the storm caused the scaffolding to fall bringing with it the sculpture of an angel above the entrance to the carriageway facing Cathcart Square – Greenock’s fallen angel lay in pieces on the ground.  Fortunately, no one was injured.

 

The two smaller carvings which were said to represent “certain industries of the town” were also damaged – one lost its head and the other lost an arm.

Some of the scaffolding was blown onto the roof of Rowan’s Warehouse, in Cathcart Square, causing damage there.

Fortunately, the angel sculpture was replaced and the damaged sculptures put right.  Greenock still has its angel which hopefully will not go the way of its predecessor!

 

Dalziel of Bardrainney

It is difficult to imagine now, but the Bardrainney area of Port Glasgow was once quiet countryside with Bardrainney House and a surrounding estate of small farms.  The surrounding land belonged to James Cunningham, 14th Earl of Glencairn.  Alexander Dalziel living at Bardrainney was his factor, dealing with the efficient running of the Estate of Finlaystone.

any of the local farms were let out and as this newspaper clipping from 1789 shows, some of the names may be recognisable - Bogside, Knockmountain, High Langside, Laigh Langside, Laigh Castlehill, Bardrainnies and Parklee.

Alexander Dalziel was born in West Linton, the son of George Dalziel who was thought to have been an innkeeper at West Linton and Noble-house Inn.  He also owned farming land in the area. (He certainly seems to know how to attract clients!) 

It was reported that George Dalziel “was the first farmer that sewed turnip in open fields;  I believe he had a field of perhaps two or three acres at Linton, so early as 1763 or 1764.  I believe he might also be the first who cultivated potatoes on a large scale, by the plough”. (History of Peeblesshire, William Chambers, 1864.)  Alexander Dalziel had (at least) two sisters, Margaret, and Mary who married James Craig, a mason in Penicuik.

Earl of Glencairn

As factor to the Earl of Glencairn, Alexander Dalziel would have often had to travel to Edinburgh on the Earl's business and it is here that he is thought to have met the poet, Robert Burns.  They both admired the work of Edinburgh poet Robert Fergusson (1750-1774).  Dalziel is said to have been responsible for introducing Burns' poetry to the Earl of Glencairn who became a valued patron of the poet.

Burns and Dalziel corresponded regularly and Burns was devastated to learn of the Earl's death in January 1791.  He wrote to Dalziel:-

“My Dear Sir, I have taken the liberty to frank this letter to you, as it encloses an idle poem of mine, which I send you; and, God knows, you may perhaps pay dear enough for it if you read it through.  Not that this is my own opinion but the author, by the time he has composed and corrected his work, has quite pored away all his powers of critical discrimination.
I can easily guess from my own heart, what you have felt on a late most melancholy event.  God knows what I have suffered, at the loss of my best friend, my first and dearest patron and benefactor; the man to whom I owe all that I am and have!  I am gone into mourning for him, and with more sincerity of grief than I fear some will, who by nature’s ties ought to feel on the occasion.
I will be exceedingly obliged to you indeed, to let me know the news of the noble family, how the poor mother and the two sisters support their loss.  I had a packet of poetic bagatelles ready to send to Lady Betty, when I saw the fatal tidings in the newspaper.  I see by the same channel that the honoured remains of my noble patron are designed to be brought to the family burial place.  Dare I trouble you to let me know privately before the day of interment, that I may cross the country, and steal among the crowd, to pay a tear to the last sight of my ever revered benefactor?  It will oblige me beyond expression."

(Glencairn had died on his return from Lisbon where he had gone for his health.  He died and was buried at Falmouth, and not at Kilmaurs in Ayrshire which is where Burns seemed to think he was to be buried.  "Lady Betty mentioned in the letter was Glencairn's sister, Lady Elizabeth.)

Robert Burns wrote a poem Lament for James, Earl of Glencairn which you can read here.  He also named his fourth son James Glencairn Burns (1794-1865) in his memory.

James Glencairn Burns

Alexander Dalziel died in early January 1819.  His obituary from the Edinburgh Magazine & Review reads:-

"Alexander Dalziel, Esq of West Linton, formerly of Port Glasgow.  Mr Dalziel was the intimate friend of the Scottish poets, Fergusson and Burns; of the former he was accustomed to relate many interesting anecdotes, and, of the latter, he was fortunate enough to be the early patron, by introducing him to the Earl of Glencairn, an event which Burns never recollected but with the enthusiasm of grateful feeling.  Mr Dalziel is styled by an excellent judge, the elegant biographer of our immortal bard, one of the ablest of his correspondents.  No man was more remarkable for acuteness and accuracy in business, for a sturdy independence of mind, and for keen indignation at any appearance of falsehood, dishonesty and meanness.”

Alexander Dalziel seems to have been a very interesting character and is thought to have been an early  member of Greenock Burns Club along with fellow Port Glasgow resident and friend of Burns, Richard Brown.

Greenock - youth and maturity

These handsome men are to be found on the west façade of Greenock's Municipal Buildings - just opposite the Central Library in Wallace Place.  Look up - and there they are!

Presumably they represent youth and maturity, growth and strength.

The Municipal Buildings were designed by Hugh and David Barclay.  The foundation stone was laid on 6 August 1881 by Provost Dugald Campbell, and work continued for a number of years.

The whole building has some magnificent sculptures all the way around and there are more here on the west side - see photographs here.

I think these two are my favourites - for now!

John Crawford - house painter and poet

John Crawford was born in Greenock in 1816.  After serving his apprenticeship with Reid, Huie & Co chandlers, West Breast, Greenock he worked as a house painter and when he was 18 years old moved to Alloa and worked there.  As well as working to provide for his family, John Crawford also wrote poetry.

 

He published a collection of his poems and songs - “Doric Lays” in 1850, dedicated to Alloa merchant Alexander Bald (1783-1859), who had encouraged Crawford in his writing.  Crawford’s poems cover a wide variety of subjects, both homely tales of everyday life and more general works.  Many were written Scots and some in English.  He was also responsible for the illustration on the front of the edition of his work.

My Auld Wifie Jean

My couthie auld wifie aye blithesome to see,

As years slip awa’ aye the dearer to me;

For ferlies o’fashion I carena ae preen,

When I cleek to the kirk we’ my auld wifie Jean.

In 1835 he married Jean McDougal in Alloa and the couple had three sons and a daughter – Alexander Hope Crawford, born in 1841, William Motherwell Crawford, born in 1845, Mary McPherson Crawford born in1852 and Andrew McDougal Crawford born in 1854.  One of the sons may have died young, two of his sons and his daughter later settled in Canada.  Many of his poems and songs refer to children –

Mother’s Pet

Mother’s bairnie, mother’s dawtie,

Wee, wee steering stumping tottie,

Bonnie dreamer, - guileless glee

Lights thy black and laughing e’e.

John Crawford died in Alloa in 1873.  It was reported that he had just returned from a visit to Greenock, to see his daughter off to stay with her brothers in Canada.

He was also interested in history and had been in the process of writing “Memorials of Alloa”.  It was published after his death.  Rev Charles Rogers (who had a lot to do with the plans for the Wallace Monument in Stirling) wrote a memorial of Crawford’s life at the beginning of the book. 

There was another aspect to John Crawford’s life, apart from his poetry that made him interesting to the public.  He was related to Highland Mary (Mary Campbell) who was one of the loves of Scottish poet Robert Burns.

Crawford was the son of Alexander Crawford, a carpenter in Greenock and Mary McPherson.  His mother was the daughter of Peter McPherson and Mary Campbell (who may have been Highland Mary's aunt).  It was said that he was born in his grandmother’s house in Charles Street – the same one where Highland Mary died.  Highland Mary was buried in the Old West Kirkyard in a plot owned by Peter McPherson, Crawford’s grandfather.  

Interestingly, at the Burns Exhibition in Glasgow in 1896 there was an exhibit labelled “Dram glass given by Mrs Burns (Jean Armour) to Peter McPherson, uncle to Highland Mary.  Presented by Mrs Crawford, widow of the late John Crawford, author of “Doric Lays, etc", to James F Lyon, Alloa, 27 May 1896.”  You can view it here.

He was obviously an admirer of Burns for on 25 January 1859 (the centenary of the birth of Burns) he held a dinner at his home and it was described as “The Gathering o' the Bards”.

An unpopular minister!

Back in the 18th century, church ministers were chosen by the local landowner.  Of course not every churchgoer was happy about that.  However, many congregations found ways of showing their disapproval when the lord of the manor chose a minister who was not liked.  Greenock was no exception.

Old West Kirk, Greenock

In 1786 John Shaw Stewart, the patron, presented the Rev Allan McAulay to the Presbytery as his chosen candidate for the vacancy at the Old West Kirk.  He was to be introduced to his new congregation on Sunday 19 May.  The day was not without incident.

When the beadle went to open up the church, he found that the doors had been barricaded shut and even the door into the pulpit had been fastened with nails and then the heads of the nails cut off.  The bell ropes had also been cut, so that the bell could not be rung on that morning.  Things were put right just in time for morning service.  Enquiries were made into who could have done this, but no culprits were found.  Some of those questioned stated that “those who had shut up the kirk were well warranted to do so from the word of God”.  It had obviously been a popular move.  Eventually, however, Rev McAulay was installed as the new minister. 

List of Ministers, Old West Kirk, Greenock

McAulay remained at Greenock for just three years, during which time he complained about the state of the manse, a new one was eventually built after he left.  He also disagreed with the Dr Adam, minister of the Mid Parish regarding when communion should be celebrated in the town.  He also caused some disquiet due to his “irregular marriage … and other scandalous conduct".  He was suspended from his post while an investigation took place and died shortly afterwards in 1791.  (Source - "Old Greenock", George Williamson (1888).)

For two years prior to his death during his suspension, pulpit supply had been provided by a number of different preachers.  Two months after McAulay’s death, much to their relief, the congregation got a new Minister – the Rev Robert Steele who remained their minister for 40 years.

Rev Robert Steele's gravestone Old West Kirkyard

A very similar scene is wonderfully described in the novel Annals of the Parish by John Galt, describing the introduction of the Rev Micah Balwhidder to his new parish in 1760:-

"First, of the placing – It was a great affair; for I was put in by the patron, and the people knew nothing whatsoever of me, and their hearts were stirred into strife on the occasion, and they did all that lay within the compass of their power to keep me out, insomuch, that there was obliged to be a guard of soldiers to protect the presbytery.”

He continues – “When we got to the kirk door, it was found to be nailed up, so as by no possibility to be opened.  The serjeant of the soldiers wanted to break it, but I was afraid that the heritors would grudge and complain of the experience of a new door, and I supplicated him to let it be as it was; we were, therefore obligated to go in by a window, and the crowd followed us, in the most unreverent manner, making the Lord’s house like an inn on a fair day, with their grievous yelly-hooing”!

John Galt

John Galt (1779-1839) moved to Greenock with his parents in 1789 and no doubt heard the story of McAulay’s welcome to the Old West Kirk.  Annals of the Parish was one of Galt’s most popular works and was published in 1821.

Galt and Graham at the Makars' Court, Edinburgh

One of the first things you will see on entering Lady Stairs' Close leading off the Royal Mile in Edinburgh is this paving slab commemorating Greenock's own writer John Galt.

The words on the slab read - "birr and smeddum" John Galt (1779-1839).  

Birr and smeddum are Scottish words often used by Galt in his writing.  Birr usually means energy or enthusiasm and smeddum can mean strength.

The courtyard called Makars' Court (makar is the Scots word for poet or author) contains many other slabs commemorating Scottish writers and among them was one for the poet William Sydney Graham - another Greenockian.

The words on the slab read - W. S. Graham 1918-1986 
"What is the language using us for?"

The quote is the title of one of Graham's poems published in the book "Implements in Their Places" (1977).  (Read the full poem and a review here.)  You can read more about W S Graham and Greenock on The Greenockian Blog here (there's more in this blog - just use the search box at the top right of this post).

The Writers' Museum faces the courtyard and has fabulous exhibits of the life and works of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and Robert Louis Stevenson.  I asked if there was a display with information about John Galt and was told - no!  Very disappointing!  However the Museum is well worth a visit.